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Water replacement

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Prez
Post subject: Water replacement
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:33 am
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Okay, I have been reading a bunch of topics on this and would like some more opinions taliored to my specifics.

I currently have a R/O DI system with the following descriptive specs::
Quote:
1st stage: high capacity, 5 micron sediment filter, to remove sediment, rust, sand, (replace every 12 months)

2nd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter removes chlorine, taste & odor (replace every 12 months)

3rd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter further removing chlorine to ensure 100% removal of chlorine (replace every 12 months)

4th stage: TFC-100/TFM-100 Premium membrane we have done extensive testing among different brands of membrane, and we recently have switched to a higher rejection membrane GE Desal membrane, (even better than Filmtec membrane), it removes 97% to 98% of all chemical, dissolved solids in tap water. (replace every 2-3 years) Look at data below.

5th stage: DI filter (de-ionized, de-mineralize filter), Nuclear grade, color changing DI filter with refillable clear housing. The DI filter removes remaining of dissolved solids after RO system.

6th stage: DI filter (de-ionized, de-mineralize filter), Nuclear grade, color changing DI filter with refillable clear housing. The DI filter removes remaining of dissolved solids after RO system. A ball valve is included for dispensing DI water into open containers or to open tank. GOOD for reef, aquarium, hydroponics applications.

My question is:

What minerals are good for the tank and fish?


Just a general answer, I know specific fish/inverts would need special attention but I'm looking for what most all fish need. I am concerned that the unit is removing too much of the good stuff and I may want to either

a) substitute some of the R/O DI replacement water with treated tap
b) remove some of the DI resin so some water can channel through without being treated



Thanks!!


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Admin
Post subject:
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 12:16 pm
Site Admin
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Location: Millis MA
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If your doing freshwater fish or saltwater fish,
I would just use the sediment and the 2 carbon filters.

If your're doing saltwater inverts/corals,
I would just use the sediment and the 2 carbon filters and the RO.
If you use the RO when making saltwater, use the salt mix AND also a little super buffer dKh.

You don't need the DI at all.
That's for science experiments,
you're just keeping animals alive.

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Ned
unclenedsfishfactory@gmail.com
508 533 5969
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Prez
Post subject:
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:41 pm
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Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:15 pm
 
Thanks =)

It's a freshwater tank. I purchased the unit because it was only $100. rated at 110gpd (which in real world it doesn't do..lol).

So your opinion is I should remove the membrane and empty the DI media.

Maybe I should have added what our tap water is like. It has some ammonia in it, pH is neutral (usually always around 7.0), 10ppm nitrAtes and it is VERY hard.


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Prez
Post subject:
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:44 pm
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Posts: 13
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A pic::




[ img ]


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Admin
Post subject:
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 2:13 pm
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Posts: 11676
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Your test kit is wrong.
Your tap water cannot have ammonia in it...
if it really does, move.

I wouldn't throw the DI section away, it's probably very expensive.

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Ned
unclenedsfishfactory@gmail.com
508 533 5969
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